Thursday, September 30, 2010

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Monday, September 27, 2010

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Rock Climbing Ropes

When you're life is on the line, literally trusting a rope in rock climbing helps. It is important to know about rock climbing ropes. Based on the climbing technique and rope system one prefers, one can choose the appropriate type of rope to be used. Two basic types of rope are the dynamic and static ropes. Dynamic rope provides maximum stretch of the rope to minimize and absorb the impact of a fall. Often used in standard rock climbing techniques, dynamic ropes are more subjected to wear and tear. Static rope is in contrast with dynamic rope. It is designed not to stretch, thus used in rappelling.
Types of Rock Climbing Ropes:
Single Ropes
Singles rock climbing ropes vary in length (although standard is approximately 10.5mm x 50m), and generally has a width size of 9.5mm to 11mm. One should not be discouraged with this type of rope because it is thinner. In some cases, a climb will require a lighter rope such as with subsequent lowering or rappelling.
Twin Ropes
Twin rock climbing ropes are basically two separate ropes of the same size, designed to put together through each piece of gear. They use thin ropes, about 7.6mm each. Often used in ultra-long rock, ice, or mixed routes, twin ropes provide light-weight gear used in such expeditions. Twin ropes offer the highest safety margin and full length rappels.
Half or Double Ropes
In contrast with twin ropes, half or double rock climbing ropes use two separate ropes of the same size, but clipped independently into pieces of gear. It is thicker than twin ropes, averaging 8.8mm in width, to compensate if the other rope fails to hold a fall. The security using half or double ropes is preferred by climbers taking on long and dangerous traverses, and razor sharp rocks. A belay method enables independent control of each rope used.
Rock climbing ropes follow a standard set by the International Union of Alpine Associations based on its fall ratings. Fall ratings measure the number of falls which the rope can handle. It is also possible for you to test your rope. In a single rope test, 80kg of weight is attached to 2.5 meter rope, and the weight will be dropped to 4.8 meters. Half rope test is made by attaching 55kg of weight to a 2.5 meter rope, dropping the weight to 4.8 meters.


Alange,spain.Not the biggest crag in the world but worth a look if you are in the area.
The views are great,the rock is fantastic,there are 130 routes and all are bolted.
Accom,There are hotels that are walking distance and at 20e pp, well worth it.
We where there in october but in the summer months how inviteing is that lake.
Sun set on a great days climbing in Alange,Spain


The algarve is known for the sea cliffs at sagres and the sport routes at pena but not many people know of the bouldering area know as scary movie.

Spray-A-Thon and Rifle wrap

Well, Rifle was terrific.

Check your ego at the door and prepare to be humbled. That's the approach that works best. If you send - woohoo. If you fail - good training! :)

Highlights of my two week trip are as follows (I've gone with the euro grades as, after all, this is sport climbing):

Spray-A-Thon 8a+ - 5th shot (super steep with one tough crux. My first grade 30 on foreign soil.)
The Anti-Phil 8a - 4th shot (gently overhanging with brutal campus-snatching around a low roof)
The Beast 7c+ - 4th shot (slipperiest rock on the planet?)
Pump-O-Rama 7c+ - 2nd shot (just like Mt Coolum in Australia. Technical kneebars not an issue :)
Beer Run 7c+ - 3rd shot (my fave in Rifle, varied and amazing)
The Blocky Horror Show 7c - 3rd shot (stepped roofs, then hugging headwall)
Hang Em High 7b+ - onsight ("proud onsight dude!" pumped off my dial)
Pretty Hate Machine 7b+ - 2nd shot (slippery steep route)
Easy Skankin 7b - onsight (best sport 12b in USA they reckon!)

And here's some pics of me doing Spray-A-Thon on my final day. Big pressure!

Getting set up for the dyno. Off the right hand undercling, you jump for that hole. Very cool move.

Clipping in the crack section.

Double kneebars (sort-of) before the first bulge. I figured out some great beta for this bulge that even the locals now use. Energy conservation is all about using momentum!

The crux move! Might not look much, but you're reaching left hand for a hold known as the "pencil". But I reckon a pencil would be a better edge.

So thanks Rifle, you were great. I love you.

All pics © Jason Huston 2010

Capitol Reef National Park

Mike B on a zig zagging 5.11 crack. This one is found in the Grand Wash and is about a 2 minute approach. Classic.

Steph Davis on a nice 12+ splitter. This crack is also in the Grand Wash and is as good as they get for this size. Steph crushed the route easily after her knee surgery months ago.

The Capitol Reef visitor center. Be sure to stop in and get some fresh pies!
Mike B making breakfast on a cool morning in the park. For 10 bucks a night it's quiet and you are right in the middle of everything in the park. Clean bathrooms and friendly folks and hundreds of fruit trees.
Mike B on his overhanging 35meter hand crack. It's awesome! Some easy face/crack climbing at the beginning leads to a beautiful 20 foot overhung handcrack out the dihedral. It is just a minute from the road (Grand Wash).
I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:http://www.scarpa.nethttp://www.arcteryx.comhttp://camp-usa.comhttp://sterlingrope.comhttp://ColoradoMountainJournal.comhttp://www.wunderground.comhttp://climbing.comhttp://rockandice.comhttp://deadpointmag.comhttp://urbanclimbermag.comhttp://andrewburr.com

Brazilian Supermodel Adriana Lima

Another addition to the list of hottest and sexiest supermodels is the pride of Brazil - the 26-year old Adriana Lima, who is best known for her modeling work with Victoria's Secret and Maybelline. With that gorgeous face and body and an oozing sex appeal, who would believe that this girl who models skimpy clothes and undies is actually as conservative as she can be.

Yes, the sexy and pretty Brazilian supermodel actually admitted in a 2006 interview with GQ that she is still a virgin. "Sex is for after marriage. They have to respect that this is my choice. If there's no respect, that means they don't want me." After that interview, she was dubbed as "The World's Most Voluptuous Virgin".

Lima first graced Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in 1999 and has appeared on subsequent shows and several television ads for the brand. She is also a spokesperson for cosmetic giant Maybelline. Currently, she is the world's fourth highest paid supermodel.

Indeed, this pretty girl is definitely too hot to handle. Awarded as "Hottest Girl on Planet" at the first Spike TV Guys' Choice Awards, she was also voted as one of the Most Desirable Women for three consecutive years (2005, 2006, 2007) by visitors of the largest men's lifestyle website, In 2007, she ranked 7th on FHM's 100 Sexiest Women and was also chosen as one of People's Magazine's annual 100 Most Beautiful People in the World. Definitely, Adriana Lima is a thing of beauty and the desire and fancy of the male population.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Tattoos - How to Get the Best Tattoo Possible

If you really want to get the best tattoo possible, then you owe it to yourself to go through these three questions and learn what it can to have any regrets with the decision of the ink. Check it out:

I would like to even get a tattoo?

Seriously, ask yourself this question because some people are actually better off without ink. If you have a personal thing you want to say, the quality you want to permanently an integral part of greeting you want to give you, or anything else to say something or holds personal importance, and then the ink is probably for you. However, if you're just jumping on the bandwagon and look at the direction of getting a tattoo on the other just a fashion statement, then do yourself a favor and skip the ink. Years will only regret later in your tattoo fashion trend loses it appeal, and you look more foolish than "cool."

Why should I get the design?

This is a great one. Go hand in hand with the above advice, if you notice that the design of all your friends, or get one that is becoming popular, then do yourself a favor and run in the other direction. Do not jump on the trendy stuff. Seeks instead to the more original work and unique, and work on specifically to talk to you really. Look at your design as art. What really drives you? Find a design that stands for you. One that you can look over and over again, and it is not everything. And can make you feel stronger, or they can put a smile on your face hard and makes you feel better, regardless of the situation.

Where can I find High quality of work?

Find a good, high-quality work is very important. Today, the best place to find such work over the Internet. Specifically, a tattoo gallery on the Internet. These sites and designs that do not end in every important category, and most of the work quality is very strong wisdom. You can not beat the convenience to log on to your computer at your leisure and make your own (or if you are bored at work) is going through different designs, bookmarking your favorite and return at a later time for further examination to find the best design quality that speaks really for you.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Myanmar Model, Thinzar Wint Kyaw Performed for 8 Ladies Show Concert in Malaysia

Myanmar popular model, Thinzar Wint Kyaw performed for "8 Ladies Show" Concert at Chin Woo Stadium, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on 11th September, 2010. Over 4000 Myanmar Migrant Workers in Malaysia gathered for this Music Concert. Myanmar popular female singers; Chit Thu Wai, Thazin, A Thin Cho Swe, Yadanar Mai and Jenny also performed together with Thinzar Wint Kyaw.

Myanmar Popular Singer : Thinzar Wint Kyaw
Photos from Ko Nay Min (MCM@MY19)